Often dubbed the jewel in the crown of northern Cyprus, the port of KYRENIA (Gime) is certainly blessed with plenty of tourist attractions. There is an impressive and extensive castle, an attractive harbour, a comfortable town centre and some splendid restaurants add to the mix.
A nearby mountain range, replete with attractive villages, interesting monasteries and some more castles provides a .. backdrop. In both the town and surrounding villages the pace is slow and the atmosphere somewhat more relaxed than in the slightly frenzied feel you can get in the package tour-dominated south.
Many tour firms offer a day trip to Kyrenia by coach but it's worth more time than that. This part of the north coast doesn't have the greatest beaches but compensation can be found inland. The writer Lawrence Darrell made his home here on the hillside above Kyrenia and wrote his nostalgic memoirs 'Bitter Sweet Lemons of Cyprus'.
The hillsides are dotted with small villages where you can take a step back in time, the crags of the Kyrenian range offer plenty of inviting mountain trails for walkers while less active visitors can head for such interesting sights as the fairytale castle of St Hilarion or the lofty fortress of Bufavento.
There are beaches to be found east and west of the town and beyond that some 12km west at Gazinosu and there are some good archeological sites at Soloi and Vouni
Kyrenia port
Kyrenia street cafe
The beautiful town of KYRENIA is only 30 mins drive from the Cyprus capital city of Nicosia and is the heart of the fast-growing holiday market in the north of Cyprus. Kyrenia town spreads over a substantial area, with new suburbs extending both inland and along the coast, but it is the compact old town centre that most holiday visitors go to see.
Kyrenia is defined for most by the pretty horseshoe harbour, overlooked by a magnificent Byzantine castle. Small yachts and motorboats are the harbour's main visitors now, the large commercial ships having been displaced to the 'new' port area some 2km to the east.
The castle dominates the old town and cafes line the harbour wall below it, while narrow cobbled streets lead up into the old town centre. Parts of the traffic-free old town have been paved over with unattractive cement slabs and the neon-lit adverts are an unwelcome new addition, but visitors don't have to wander far to find themselves in quiet, shady squares lined with attractive restaurants and cafes.
After the writer Lawrence Darrell set up home in the foothills above the town many Brits followed suit and Kyrenia was home to a substantial British ex-pat community. Many British and virtually all the Greeks fled after the Turkish invasion of 1974, but many have now returned.
Kyrenia and nearby Bellapais, probably more than any other resorts in north Cyprus, have recovered from those turbulent times and today enjoy a growing annual influx of visitors.
Kyrenia Castle
Castle dungeon
Museum shipwreck
The huge Kyrenia Castle dominates the shoreline in Kyrenia. It was built on a headland in Byzantine times, overlooking the small harbour to the west and another bay to the east.
It was surrendered to the Ottomans in 1570 after the Venetians had been ousted from Nicosia. It looks as though the Venetians could have held out for some time within the huge rectangular structure with its four massive bastions at each corner.
Visitors can walk right around the ramparts, though the route can be tricky in places and you need a head for heights. There is a marked route around the whole structure and it's advisable to stick to it as stones can be loose and the going tricky.
Many rooms and chambers lead off the central courtyard which is now a small, shady park. To the west of the courtyard are the old prison dungeons where plastic mannequins of prisoners pose in various stages of neon-lit torture.
To the east is a temperature-controlled chamber that houses a notable Kyrenian shipwreck, one of the oldest vessels ever to be recovered from the Mediterranean.
It is thought to be a cargo boat carrying almonds, grain and wine from Kos which sank off the coast of Kyrenia about 300BC. It was discovered in 1967 by a local diver. A reconstruction shows what the vessel must have been like and the original timbers can be viewed in a special dimly lit room. Open Daily: 9am - 6.45pm: Entrance fee
Kyrenia Folk Art Museum
The folk art museum is found at Kyrenia harbour and housed in a typical 18th century building. On the ground floor is an impressive oil press, some primitive ploughs and other agricultural instruments, artisan workbenches and some military artifacts.
On the upper floor are examples of traditional crochet, embroidery, bedspreads, table covers, head scarves and other household items that have been collected from various parts of Cyprus. Another room shows a traditional kitchen with water jugs, wooden and ceramic bowl and other domestic artefacts.
The third and largest room has a wooden bed, cupboard, and cabinets of clothes. Open Daily: 9am - 5pm, Jun-Sep
There are no beaches in the town of Kyrenia itself but there are some decent spots both east and west if you have transport. The beaches to the west of Kyrenia are all private and belong to the hotels built nearby but day visitors are welcome - for a price. These beaches usually have plenty of tourist trappings such as sun beds, watersports and restaurants.
Kervansaray beach
Escape beach
Deniskizi beach
About 6km west of Kyrenia is the popular, sandy and private Kervansaray Beach in a pretty cove. It can be found on the right after driving through Karaoglanoglu at the Gülers Fish Bar. Visitors usually park on the roadside and walk down to the beach where there are sun loungers for hire and a small beach bar serving drinks and ice cream. There are restaurants overlooking the beach with a good selection of food.
The private Escape Beach has several other names - Five Mile Beach (the approximate distance from Kyrenia), Sunset Beach and Yavuz Cikarma in Turkish. The area is landscaped with grass and flowers. There is little shade but sun loungers and umbrellas are for hire and a large restaurant overlooks the sands.
A rocky islet protects the beach from the open sea though swimmers who venture beyond the island have been drowned in the strong currents. A sand bank connects the islet to the shore and you can paddle across if you wish to. Water sports are available, including jet skis, canoes and pedal boats. There is also a scuba diving school.
It can get very busy in the summer thought the eastern end, where jet skis and boats are banned, is much quieter. Open-air night parties bring in the youngsters with club music from European Djs. A white monument above the beach announces (in Turkish) that this was the spot where the 1974 invasion began.
Around the headland is the private Deniz Kyzy or Mermaid Beach. Set in an attractive horseshoe bay the beach belongs to two hotels, the Deniz Kyzy and Deniz Kyzy Royal, so it can get very busy and there is a small charge to use the facilities. Just above the beach is a large freshwater swimming pool open to the public. As well as the usual sun loungers there is a variety of water sports including windsurfing, water skiing and fun rafts for the children. There are several steps down onto the sand so it is not suitable for people with walking difficulties.
Alsancak beach
Mare Monte beach
La beach
Camelot beach
A holiday village here has dumped sand to improve the beach, also called Guzelyali, but it quickly turns to shingle and sharp stones out at sea. Beach shoes are a must for swimmers. There is a restaurant on the beach and showers and toilets. The complex has a large car park.
This attractive, small, private, sandy beach has recently been open to the public. There is a sign to it from the Alsancak Restaurant on the main road. The area was until recently under military control and there are still several warning signs around but these can be safely ignored. There is a good sandy beach with sunbeds and a pleasant restaurant overlooking the sea.
This long stretch of sand belongs to the Mare Monte Hotel beach about 9km west of Kyrenia. There are all the usual hotel facilities such as bar, shower, sun loungers and so on. It is very popular beach with the locals so the weekends are usually busy. There are a large number of steps to the beach so it's not for those who have difficulty walking.
The LA Hotel has a good sandy beach which is rather narrow but is well looked after. Along with all the usual beach facilities, loungers, showers, toilets and so on there is a wide selection of water sports.
Beyond Alsancak is a small private sandy beach at Camelot, formerly known as the almost unpronouncable Incirli Plaji, signposted from the Friends Beach Bar and Restaurant. Recent years have brought in developers and what was once a plain and simple beach has turned into something of a beach resort. The shoreline water is very shallow, making it good for families with children. There is the restaurant and a bar, free toilets and sun loungers for hire.
There are several beaches east of Kyrenia that are public and free but they tend to be more isolated and have fewer facilities. That means they get fewer visitors as well, so can more attractive to those who prefer their beaches unspoiled by tourist development.
Catalkoy beach
Acapulco beach
Alagardi beach
About 2km east of Kyrenia is the village of Karakoum and a sign for the private Diana Beach, a small cove of sand past some new villas. Sand has been dumped by the lorry load to make it more attractive but it gets rocky underfoot in the water. There are sun loungers to rent and a small restaurant for food and drink. There are also jet skis to hire, which can make for a noisy day for those not into watersports.
This private beach is about 7km east of Kyrenia and well signposted off the main road. It is relatively small, a thin sickle of sand in a small bay, protected by a rock headland that sweeps around it. There are sun loungers and a diving platform as well as a small restaurant at the back of the beach. There is a good horse riding stable here and you can ride along deserted beaches or through the mountains. Catalkoy is a large picturesque village with a good selection of shops and restaurants nestled in foothills of the Five Finger Mountains. Many Europeans have build luxury homes in the area.
Just before the road sweeps up into the mountains is the big sandy beach at Vyrsi now completely dominated by the Acapulco Hotel complex. The road passes through an army camp before it reaches the entrance to the holiday complex which caters for the package tour trade. The beach is fine clean sand and the hotel provides all needs for eating and drinking. Signs warn of strong currents out at sea and waves tend to be big so children should be supervised. There is also a very large swimming pool with water slides - said to be the biggest on Cyprus and lots of sports, from beach volleyball to tennis courts. Entry prices are steep but you do get use of the hotel's indoor gym, jacuzzi and sauna for you entrance fee
Also known as Vakiflar Beach and not to be confused with Lara beach in the south, this private beach is about 3km east of Vyrsi and popular with British ex-pats who have quite a community around here. The dark sand looks a little scruffy but its pleasant enough and all the facilities including toilets, showers and changing rooms and a reasonable open air restaurant.
These public sands are is also known as Turtle Beach for obvious reasons. It's about 20km from Kyrenia. Access is down a rough track to two beach strips either side of a small headland of shingle and sand backed by low dunes. Alagadi is a sandy beach and the water stays shallow for quite a distance. There is a small islet that you can wade to though the sea floor is very rocky. Facilities are limited to a restaurant on the main road and the Green Turtles Beach Bar in summer but there are toilets there. Green and loggerhead turtles come and lay their eggs in the summer. During the egg-laying season the beach area for sitting on is marked out with red painted markers. Beaches are closed overnight and patrolled by students in the egg laying season from June to October.
Bellapais Monastery
Bellapais carving
Bellapais bell tower
Most day tour visitors to the north will take in Bellapais, about 5km southeast of Kyrenia and also called Beylerbeyi, for two reasons. One is see the abbey, the other to visit the village that was home of the writer Lawrence Darrell in the mid 1950s.
The village is perched on the foothills above Kyrenia and may seem a little too twee and touristy for some tastes. The streets are too steep, narrow and winding to take the daily tour buses which disgorge visitors on the outskirts of the village.
This is the village described by Darrell in his book 'Bitter Lemons of Cyprus' but the original has long disappeared. The 'tree of idleness', under which many of his characters sat, is still there (although there is some dispute whether the actual site is a mulberry near the Abbey coffee shop or a maple at the nearby restaurant).
It now provides shade for tourists rather than locals and is littered with lager bottles and crisp packets instead of glasses of ouzo and metzes. A yellow plaque marks the door of the author's former home, which is still a private residence.
On the edge of Bellapais and overlooking the Kyrenian plain is the impressive Augustinian Bellapais monastery. It was begun in the 12th century by monks who fled the wars in Palestine. Cloisters and a large refectory were added in the following century.
The dark church interior is in a good state of repair, as is the cloister area. But much else has been lost over the years, though the complex still very beautiful and visitors can walk around the upper storeys for impressive views. Open Daily: 9am - 7pm Jun - Sep, 9am - 5pm Oct - May
Hilarion Castle
View from Hilarion Castle
The lofty, fairytale castle of St Hilarion sits on a high bluff overlooking the coastal plain about 8km southwest of Kyrenia. Full of hidden rooms, tunnels and overgrown gardens it is a children's delight.
The castle is named after a monk who lived in a cave on the hillside and was begun in the 10th century with a church and monastery over his tomb. Its strategic position as a watchtower over the whole plain and between castles at Kantara and Bufavento saw it extensively extended both as a military outpost and a summer palace after the arrival of the Venetians.
There are three main parts, or floors (eciente), though the divisions are not immediately apparent.
Lower Enciente: This is where visitors enter through the barbican and is the main military garrison and stables.
Middle Enciente: Once protected by a drawbridge this area had barrack rooms, a church and royal apartments.
Upper Enciente: Guarded by a Byzantine tower the upper area has a central courtyard surrounded by royal apartments, kitchens and various chambers all topped by Prince John's Tower - not a climb for the less than fit - where the views are truly breathtaking. Open Daily: 9am - 5pm
Bufavento Castle
The name means 'blown by winds' and the lofty fortress of Bufavento Castle perches precariously 940m up the mountainside about 20km southeast of Kyrenia and overlooking the Mesarya Plain to the south and the Kyrenia Plain to the north.
Little known of its origins but it was captured by Richard the Lionheart in 1191 and later used as a prison by the Lusignans. The castle in not in a great condition and much lies in ruins.
There are a couple of good chambers in the lower part and stairs to the upper area have been renovated recently. Getting to the castle not easy. It is signposted from the beautiful village below but there is a 15 minute drive along a rough track before a steep walk of 30-40 minutes. Open Daily: dawn to dusk; Free entry
Lapta church
Galip Beach Lapta
The attractive elevated village of LAPTA, also called LAPITHOS, makes for a popular day trip from Kyrenia, about 15km to the east.
The village was fortunate in escaping a huge forest fire in the mid-1990s though much of the surrounding landscape still bears the scars of burnt out trees. The village itself ekes old world charm and its leafy streets are full of good craft shops and restaurants.
It was once one of the city kingdoms of Cyprus and a regional Roman capital. Lapta has some of the most beautiful scenery on the island. It sits perched on the northern slopes on the Five-Finger Mountains and the village is blessed with several water springs to feed huge citrus groves and vegetable plots - even a local water park.
As well as the delights of the village itself there are some decent beaches nearby and walkers will enjoy the many trails that snake through the hillside citrus groves and pine forests.
Horseshoe Bay
The KORMAKITIS or Korucam is a wild and barely populated area at the north west tip of Cyprus that ends at a rocky cape and is home to a little known Christian community known as the Maronites of Kormakitis who settled there in the 12th century.
The sect has dwindled over the years and barely 100 Marionites remain, centred around the church of Agios Georgios in the pretty hillside village of Kormakitis. The coast road runs west from the village at VASILIEA past the small but popular HORSESHOE BAY before turning into a dirt track that leads out the wild and desolate cape.
Old mine at Karavostasi
South of Cape Kormakitis is the long sweeping bay of MORFOU. Beaches along this stretch of coast are thin strips of shingle and pebble.
At the southern end of the bay is the former port of Karavostasi or Gemikonagi which served the now abandoned mines that scar the hillside behind. An imposing pier stretches out into the sea and a rusting old tug lies along the shore.
The town attracts its share of tourists and there are several restaurants and cafes here as well as a series of small sand and pebble beaches to the west including Zafer Gazinosu, and Asmali.
Inland from Karavostasi the road winds uphill to the popular and pretty tree-lined village of LEFKE or Lefka which acts as gateway into the eastern edge of the forest area.
Soloi mosaic
A few kilometres west of Karavostasi is the impressive archaeological site at SOLOI, one of the 10 ancient city kingdoms of the island. Copper mines made the area rich before it was occupied by the Romans.
The site had two main areas: the 4th century basilica at the entrance and the amphitheatre found short hill path. The basilica church is noted for the remains of mosaic floors, particularly one with a swan enveloped in floral patterns and one of four dolphins.
This is reputed to be the place where St Mark was baptised. The Roman amphitheatre was carved into the side of the hill and has been restored as much as it can be given that the British carried away a lot of the stone to build the Suez Canal. In its heyday it could hold up to 4,000 spectators. Open Daily: 9am - 7pm
Ancient Vouni
The palace at Vouni dates back to the 5th century BC and at one time there were nearly 140 rooms. Cisterns carved out of the rocks were used to meet the demand for water and there are examples of ancient hot-baths.
Excavations have uncovered earthenware jugs blackened by the fire that destroyed the palace containing gold and silver bracelets, ornamented silver cups, and hundreds of coins.
To the south of the palace are the remains of the temple of Athena built towards the end of the 5th century BC The temple has two courtyards and an enclosed sacred ground. Remains still visible include the entrance, a courtyard with columns, a kitchen courtyard, cistern, granaries, baths, living rooms and offices.
The palace was burned to the ground in 380 BC and was never reconstructed. There extensive complex sits on a hilltop with magnificent views over the whole area.
When it comes to accommodation in Kyrenia visitors are pretty well spoilt for choice. There are several large hotels that offer excellent accommodation. There are around 40 in the city ranging from luxury five star to family, family-run hotels - all known for their warm hospitality.
The biggest and best hotels tend to be in the centre of Kyrenia but there are plenty of good ones, cheaper too, on the outskirts. There are hotels that back onto local beaches and hotels nestled in the mountains just inland.
As the most visited town in North Cyprus it is hardly surprising that there is no lack of restaurants and cafes. They spring up mainly around the harbour offering Turkish and international menus. Many of the best restaurants though are found away from the honey trap of the harbour and in the old town which is packed with cafes, restaurants and bars tucked away down the old side streets between the harbour and the mosque areas. There is Italian, Indian and Turkish as well as fast food take-aways - even British pub grub in places like The Swallow or The Marlborough.
Kyrenia’s nightclubs tend to be tamer and more friendly than their commercial cousins in the south. Favourites include the revamped C’est la Vie club and Night Jar while Cherenis Gardens offers a cool open-air venue. Most clubs open about 9pm. Several of the big hotels also have nightclubs and many bars and pubs have live music.
The best way to explore Kyrenia is with a rental car as public transport is not at all good in the Kyrenia area. Those staying in central hotels can catch the "Lapta Dolmus," buses that make daily runs to the most popular beaches to the west side of Kyrenia. There are inter-city bus services to Nicosia and Famagusta.
The main currency is Turkish Lira but UK pounds are accepted in most places and credit cards are accepted almost everywhere. There are half a dozen banks in the town centre with cash machines, including HSBC.
Beautiful Cyprus is renowned for its spectacular scenery, magnificent mountain backdrops, stunning sandy beaches, crystal clear waters and superb weather all year round. Holidays to Cyprus are perfect for groups, couples or families wanting a family getaway. Whatever you are looking for in your getaway, you will no doubt find it with Cyprus holidays.
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Larnaca International airport is the main entry point for visitors to Kyrenia. The airport is about 7km from Larnaca city and there are regular bus services (No 22 and No 24) from the airport to the town centre from 6.20am to 7pm. Taxis are also plentiful
You cannot cross directly into Kyrenia from south Cyprus. Instead, you must first cross the Green Line into the Turkish-occupied territory so you need passport, visa and driving licence.
If you choose a flight to Larnaca, you can either take a taxi transfer to North Cyprus, or take a rental car across the border. Please note that you must tell your south Cyprus car hire company you intend to do cross the border as you will have to buy additional insurance.
All Northern Cyprus flights must first land in Turkey, and then continue on to Ercan International Airport in Northern Cyprus. Over ninety flights a week arrive at Ercan, with the main airlines providing flights to North Cyprus being Turkish Airlines, Pegasus Airlines, Cyprus Turkish Airlines and Atlas Jet. From the UK, you can fly to North Cyprus via Turkey from Stansted, Gatwick or Heathrow. Most flights to North Cyprus from the UK arrive in the evening. The stopover in Turkey is not usually more than an hour, and you do not usually need to change planes when flying to Northern Cyprus with Cyprus Turkish Airlines. Cyprus Turkish airlines fly to North Cyprus Ercan airport near Kyrenia
There are several regular ferry services to Kyrenia or Gime from the Turkish mainland. There are fast ferries daily from Tasucu and Alanya as well as a regular car ferry from Tasucu. The journey time is about 2-3 hours.
In summer there are regular holiday boat trips some of Turkey’s hotspots including Alanya, Antalya, and Anamur. The two main companies for sea ferries between Northern Cyprus and Turkey are Akgunler Shipping and Fergun Shipping. Details of Fergun ferries can be found at www.fergun.net
Most North Cyprus car hire firms are based in Kyrenia and hire cars all have distinctive red licence plates. Roads are generally good but beware that place names do vary. Nicosia is also signposted as Lefkosia or Lefkosa and Kyrenia can be Keryneia or Girne.
If you cross the border by car checkpoints are open at all times. You will need to buy extra insurance for your hire car and you must also have your driving licence with you, or you will not be allowed into North Cyprus. You must present your passport and visa application, car insurance papers, and your papers must be stamped if you don't want lengthy delays getting back.
If you try to take cigarettes, alcohol or expensive clothing across the border expect to face a long period of questioning and to have the good confiscated. It is also unwise to take details of North Cyprus properties across the border to the south, not even sales brochures. The Greek Cypriot authorities may question you.
Also, don't try to take a car hired in North Cyprus across the border. If you wish to visit the south, park your hire car in North Nicosia and walk across the border.
North Cyprus buses run between Kyrenia and other major towns daily with a reduced service after 7pm and at weekends. Each bus route is run by companies under licence and buses can vary in considerably size. Most are white minibuses (known locally as dolmus) and the destination is usually displayed on the windscreen. It is common to flag buses down if you can't find a bus stop. Unfortunately there are no fixed timetables, even when services are infrequent. Tourist areas are well serviced in the summer but fall off in winter, especially in mountain areas so car rental is recommended. The long-distance bus station is on Bedredin Demirel south of the new town.
Taxis are easy to find in Kyrenia, and operate meters. Rural taxis are only found at village taxi stands and don't have meters, so you must haggle the price first. You can also share a taxi to keep costs down.
www.cyprus-beach-guide.co.uk
